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TECHNICAL SOLUTIONS FOR MODELING PANTS PATTERNS IN CORRESPONDENCE WITH WOMEN'S CONFORMATIONAL PARTICULARITIES

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Author(s): Sabina Olaru | Elena Spînachi | Emilia Filipescu

Journal: Annals of the University of Oradea. Fascicle of Textiles, Leatherwork
ISSN 1843-813X

Volume: XIV;
Issue: 2;
Start page: 122;
Date: 2013;
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Keywords: pattern | design | pants | draping | defect

ABSTRACT
The geometric method used in patterns design of different products categories, gives good results for garments manufacturing in industrial system, meaning type representative bodies. The quality of the results is due to the fact that in geometric method the completion of the basic patterns is achieved by prototype implementation followed by viewing the correspondence between the body and the garment, by dressing the human body or industrial mannequin. In the case that the garment, designed and manufactured for type representative bodies according to the standards is dressed by persons that do not fit the type bodies for whom the product was made, the fenomena called “draping defects” apprears. These unconcordances between wearer body and product obtained in industrial system is due to the conformational features of potential users such as: buttocks prominence and form, hips prominence and form, pelvis width and length, ratio between front and anterior-posterior diameters of the pelvis.Anthropometry researches have shown that for a standardized value of the hip perimeter the secondary dimensions of the area (posterior buttock arch, length from waist the buttock point, lower arch of torso) may have different values. In this context, the paper aims to analyze the shape and size of the women’s pelvis and to develop the technical solutions to adapt the basic pattern for “trousers with adjusted silhouette” to concrete particularities of the body shape.
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